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Monthly Archives: November 2014

The Oregon Coast

Posted on 2014/11/28 by Guy Posted in road trip .

We marked the 19,000 km point of our trip by crossing the Columbia river and remembering Lewis and Clark. The shelter they made upon their discovery of the Pacific is apparently still there.  However, poor directions and lack of time forces us to move on.

Just before Cannon Beach, we took a side trip down Ecola park road. Back in the rainforest again, we enjoyed the drive up to Indian Beach.  It was also a lovely beach but we found neither tidal pools nor seaglass.

Cannon Beach gets its name from ship cannons that washed up on shore hundreds of years ago. Haystack rock is also an interesting attraction.  The beaches are hard packed and great for walking.  And that is all we did. No treasures were found.

The same goes for Arch Cape, Hug Point, Manzanita, and Rockaway Beach.  Although in the latter, we found an interesting gift shop with seaglass and wonderful saltwater taffy.  Off to Tillamook for the night and a good rest for more beachcombing Wednesday. We could not take the loop drive around the peninsula because of a mudslide, so we readjusted our itinerary.

We kept hearing about the rugged Oregon coast.  Going North to South, the first 100 miles are not very rugged.  It does, however, have nice sandy beaches that are great for walking.  Then we got to the Devil’s punchbowl and saw our first rugged.  From then on, there were a few other rugged spots, including devil’s churn where the water rushes in about 300 feet up a narrow rock ravine, crashing and spurting along the way.

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There is also Sea Lion Cave which unfortunately seemed to be closed for the winter.  We also missed the tallest waterfall, but we did not miss arch rock, the smallest harbour and shortest river in the world (D river).

We drove through the protected dunes area which reminded us of PEI. We also went up and down some sinuous mountain roads with many sharp curves.  It seems here also it is the law that slow moving vehicle use turnouts to let others pass. I also noticed the maximum fine for texting and driving is only $500.

Thursday, we did the last 100 miles or so.  Around milepost 300, you are again witnessing the rugged Oregon Coast, with beautiful ocean views, windy roads, and wind gusts. Be sure to stop in the harbour in Gold Beach to see the sunken ship and read about the bridge built in the 1930’s that is still standing today.  It used a revolutionary arch design that is now commonly used.

We made it to the California border where we are looking for a detailed map to be sure we don’t miss anything important

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Tags: oregon, road trip, travel, usa .

Exploring Washington State

Posted on 2014/11/26 by Guy Posted in road trip .

We needed to run a few Canadian errands before crossing.  By the time we got to the border, it was 5pm on a Friday and the weekend rush was on.  44 minutes later, we made it through the line and marked our 18,000km in the dark. We headed towards Bellingham for the night.  We found a laundromat with free wi-fi so we got to accomplish two tasks at once.

Saturday we went to Seattle.  This is a very pretty city full of Starbucks and other espresso bars.  We found two grey sandy beaches to explore.  Though we did not find much seaglass, I did score a decent black piece, though not at the beach known for black glass – go figure.

I mentioned the other day that we were a bit behind schedule. We had decide to forgo the Olympic Peninsula.  Off we went to Aberdeen for the night.  Little did we know that the Walmart parking lot was right beside the train tracks.  Yes we got woken up at 2am with what seemed like an endless train moving at 0mph through the town.

Sunday we continued our coastal exploration, heading south towards Oregon.  Then a little birdie told us to go North to find a glass beach.  That is just a 3 hour drive back to the Olympic Peninsula.  Hmmm we should have turned right at Olympia yesterday instead of left. The good news is that we have headed out of the rain that has been plaguing us and would continue for 5 days in Oregon.  We arrived in Port Stanley at high tide so we waited until morning to explore this beach.

We took a 5 hour venture at the crack of dawn. Being first on the beach IS important you know.  We came back with a good collection of seaglass.  I was impressed by the large quantity of milk glass to be found on this beach

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After a rest, a dry off, a change of clothes, and a snack, we put on our crock pot supper and resumed our journey South.

It seems that in Washington State they have laws against slow vehicles holding up traffic.  When there are turnouts for slow vehicles on a 2 lane highway, it is mandatory to use it if 3 vehicles or more are following.

We found our way back towards Long Beach and found a place to pull over for the night. Tuesday, we had no luck finding seaglass, but we did find a free museum and oddities at 409 Pacific Ave South in Long Beach.  We saw several vintage gaming machines from love meters to weigh scales, pacinko, reginas, and that impossible weeping arm game in which you prize should get pushed up a ramp.

That worthwhile side trip was culminated by a visit to a scrapuccino shop.  Scrapbooking and coffee in perfect harmony. Then we said goodbye to Washington and set our eyes on Oregon.

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Tags: road trip, travel, usa, washington .

Southbound in the USA

Posted on 2014/11/22 by Guy Posted in road trip .

The Canada portion of our trip is over. Today we crossed into Washington State and started our trek South to warmer weather.

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Here is our Provincial summary
New Brunswick 2
Quebec. 4
Ontario. 20
Manitoba. 2
Saskatchewan. 4
Alberta. 7
British Columbia 20

Even that was nowhere near enough to see all we wanted.

When i first started planning this trip, I knew we had a Christmas deadline.  So I needed to be able to count back how many days away we were from our goal.  I started with an average of 5 hours driving per day along with 10 hours of rest, eating, sightseeing, Internet, etc.  I later revised this plan to 4 hours a day. 

If I ever do this again, I will plan on 3 hours a day to allow plenty of leeway for side trips, delays, repairs, bad weather, etc.  After 9 weeks, we are 10 days behind schedule.  However, we have plenty of room to cut out side trips and detours.

I picked out 3, and only 3 of the many wow moments of our trip.  The most awesome visual was Writing on Stone provincial park. The most nostalgic was visiting Maude of Leaskdale. The saddest moment was the roadside memorial in Charelsholm.

My 2 biggest disappointments are going that far North and not seeing any Northern Lights, and the Columbia Icefields being covered in snow.

The long term forecast is for a week of rain and this is the beachcombing portion of our adventure.  Oh well, bring out the rain gear and allow plenty of time to dry out.

Guy

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Tags: canada, road trip, travel .

Driving in British Columbia

Posted on 2014/11/21 by Guy Posted in road trip .

We have a two hour wait for the ferry back to the mainland. This gives us a chance to reflect on the last 19 days in Beautiful BC. 

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Dump Stations
I make extensive use of sanidumps website to find places to flush my RV. In BC, most small towns have free dump stations that are easy to locate.  Look for a blue information sign that looks like a trailer having a dump.  Not all of them have free potable water, but free dump is nice.  However, in the larger municipalities like Vancouver and Victoria, they are harder to find.  Therefore, plan your stops On the road from Jasper to Prince Rupert, every town had a free dump station.  There are also several free ones in the campgrounds, but those tend to close seasonally.

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Drinking Water
We do not drink even the potable water from dump stations.  We prefer to drink exclusively bottled water during our travels.  Minor changes in local water can cause digestive problems.  There is nothing worse than being sick on holidays in an RV.  As for filling our holding tank, I carry a small squirt bottle of bleach.  A few drops g into each fill, regardless of the source.  This is the water we use fro washing only.  You might think bottled water is expensive, but you can get a gallon for $1 to $1.6.  If you save a few bottles, you will also be able to find reverse osmosis or UV dispensers in some supermarkets where you can get a gallon for. 60 to. 99 cents.  We use about one gallon a day for drinking and cooking, and the extra cost is worth the peace of mind.

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Speed Limits
The speed limits are the highest I have seen in Canada. 4-lane control access highways have 120K speed limits, even those going up and down those mountain roads.  If you are exploring, and you should, you will travel some tricky mountain passes. There are many sharp turns at 80, 60,40,and even 30K. Those are not suggestions, especially when driving a high vehicle like an RV.

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Traffic Signals
Many 4-lane roads with limits of 80K or more will have traffic signals at major intersections instead of overpasses. Most of those have flashing lights a few hundred metres back to warn of changing signals.  BC does not seem to use flashing green for priority turns.  Instead, those are used to mark minor intersections.  They are similar to our flashing amber and flashing red.  So the flashing green reminds you that crossing traffic has a full stop sign. It is not telling you that itr is safe to turn left in front of oncoming traffic.  Periodically (on demand I presume), those lights will turn red to allo minor road traffic to pass.

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Road Information
Because BC roads cross mountains, weather conditions can change abruptly with changing altitude. Follow @DriveBC to get twitter feeds of changing road conditions.  BC also has several highway cams in strategic locations.  We made extensive use of the network from Prince George to Prince Rupert to see how much snow was on the steep inclines.  Twitter feeds will usually include a link to the website where you can check the webcams.

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Wildlife
Wildlife is everywhere.  They tend to cross or even stay on the road.  We have seen Bighorn sheep, elk, peacocks, and several deer, especially in urban areas.  Beware of rubberneckers (like us) who stop to take pictures.

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Today, we are taking the ferry from Victoria to Vancouver nearing the end of the Canada portion of our trip. Tomorrow we will cross into Washington State and hug the coast down to California, getting a bit warmer every day.

Guy

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Tags: british columbia, canada, road trip, travel .

From Prince Edward Island to Vancouver Island

Posted on 2014/11/19 by Guy Posted in road trip .

We left Prince Edward Island 8 weeks and 2 days ago.  We have finally arrived at the other Island on the West Coast.

First, let’s backtrack to Sunday.  We visited Downtown Vancouver and went to Canada Place to “fly over Canada“.  If you have not heard of that theatre, you must look it up. You are dangling in mid air with your nose on a giant screen.  You pivot and turn as you fly through some of the most beautiful places in Canada.  Not for the faint of heart and as much fun as a roller coaster.

We also went beachcombing and found a few treasures. Then we settled for the night in North Vancouver to be close to the ferry on Monday. We had a pleasant ride, except for getting booted off the INTERNET every 2 minutes – hence the lack of updates. On. The Island, we toured a bit in Nanaimo, worked our way up a few beaches in Parksville, and then headed across the mountains towards Tofino.

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In the beautiful town of Coombs, we stopped at “Goats on Roof.” That is a must shopping spot for the connoisseur. First, the attraction.  There is grass on the roof, and goats in the summertime.  Before entering the store, you pass by a wonderful ice cream shop with great flavours and affordable prices. Inside, you will find imported and specialty foods from all over.  They have sauces, chutneys, jams, baked goods, smoked and canned seafood, a huge gluten free section, and many more items.

Then we undertook about an hour of windy roads through the mountains.  There were no great altitude changes (only about 300 metres) but the number of switchback roads was incredible.  It seemed, every minute, there would be a slow to 60, or 50 sign.  After awhile they just said “slow to 50 for the next 5 kilometres”.  When I got to the slow to 40, I knew the curves were sharp.  There was also a point where the oncoming high trucks would have to drift into my lane because the cliff overhangs the highway. As with our experience in Vancouver, this is not for the faint of heart but well worth the trip. Cindy will have more pictures of this drive on her blog at 2fromaway.ca
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The sign going this way says watch for high loads crossing the line. The sign going the other way is a truck with the top of the box hitting the mountain. Somewhere close to there was a steep hill saying 18% grade. This is the biggest we have encountered so far. However, I see a true switch back road on the horizon for tomorrow. Time will tell.

Along the way is Port Alberni, where you can find all the services you need in Central Vancouver Island. We made it to the Pacific Rim highway just before sunset so we found a place to stop for the night.

Tuesday, we are off to Tofino. There are several nice lookouts and beaches along the way, including the site of a cold war radar installation to watch for threats in the Pacific.

We went as far North as we could on the pacific rim highway, then as far South. In Ucluelet, we found a little beach called little beach. It had lots of fine gravel and lots of seaglass – our first major find on the West coast. This trek took us past the 126 meridian.  We were further West in Haida Gwaii but I forgot to note. We were also South of the 49th parallel for the first time since Ontario.  Remember that Vancouver Island dips much further South than the mainland.

We hurried back before dark to traverse the mountain passes before nightfall and make it back to Goats on the Roof before they closed. We spent the night in Duncan, waiting for first light to head for the other part of the Pacific Coast on the Island.

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Tags: british columbia, canada, road trip, travel .

Kelowna to Vancouver

Posted on 2014/11/16 by Guy Posted in road trip .

Friday, we became optimistic about the weather.  We loaded up with propane, flushed the antifreeze out of the system and refilled the water heater.  We are heading for Vancouver and the forecast low there is only -2 so we should be able to maintain our running water overnight.

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Just when we thought we were out of the high hills, we started climbing out of West Kelowna. It felt like 10 minutes of uphill all the way. Nice 4 lane road with additional passing lanes and a speed limit of 120.  We climbed up to about 1725 metres if memory serves right. We found a lookout stop near the top with an interesting dead tree.  Good place for lunch. Yes, there is a pallet on top of the tree making a good spot for an eagle’s nest. See the closeup at 2fromaway.ca

The descent towards Merritt was much more gradual, but still a few steep sections and some more “check your brakes” sections. From Merritt to the greater Vancouver area was also very nice.  Still a few more ups and downs and we finally saw the altitude dipping down to double digits. We arrived in Abbotsford just before the visitor centre closed.  The young lady there was very enthusiastic and gave us excellent advice on places to go and things to do in the area, in Vancouver, and on the Island. 

Our task now is to prioritize places to go with staying on schedule. We are now back to a reasonable 9 days behind schedule and considering we have taken Texas out of the loop, that puts us on track to arrive in North Carolina a week before Christmas.

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Tags: british columbia, canada, road trip, travel .

The Okanagan Valley

Posted on 2014/11/15 by Guy Posted in road trip .

I have heard so much about the Okanagan Valley. Rich and luscious, full of apples and grapes, the wine destination in Western Canada.  It took us 16,000 kilometres to get here.  There is no snow and the grass is still green, but it is still bitterly cold compared to normal.  The thermometer dipped to -10 in Kelowna last night and we are still not ready to turn the water back on in the RV.

In getting here from Banff, we went through the Rogers Pass.  The highest point was only 1330 metres if I recall correctly, but it sure is a treacherous drive.  It is a good thing the roads were clear, unlike the icefields of the day before. There were switchback roads,spiral tunnels (for the train), and several tunnels to help prevent avalanches from blocking the highway.

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Once we cleared the mountains and headed towards Kamloops, the snow had left the side of the road, and the frost was gone from the trees and grass.  It was like opening a window to a garden. We went through Salmon Arm and Shuswap, the houseboat capital of Canada.

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The drive into Kamloops along the South Fraser River was nice.  The hills lining the river valley were a golden brown. Instead of the black and white we have been seeing for days. We stopped in Chase for a short walk along Little Shuswap lake.  It was lined with dead salmon . . . The run is over and they have done their duty.

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Kamloops is very pretty. Like most mountain cities, you go down forever and when you get into town, you can see houses lining the hills on both sides. From there, we headed to Kelowna. The drive from Vernon in was interesting.  Mountain on the right with rockslide screens and retaining wall (I think), divided highway (thank goodness) and houses lit up on the other side of what I though was Lake Okanagan.  All these suppositions because it was dark then, and we probably missed some sights.  I checked the map and found that the lake is in the other side and all those houses were in the valley, not on the lake.

Today, Saturday, we are heading towards Vancouver, where at least the daytime temperatures will be above zero.

You can see Cindy’s rendition of this leg at 2fromaway.ca

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Tags: british columbia, canada, road trip, travel .

Heading for the BC Interior

Posted on 2014/11/13 by Guy Posted in road trip .

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You keep hearing how the British Columbia Interior is lovely and warm.  Not this week. An unusual cold front has swept in, bringing -20 in the mountains and -10 to the interior.  Our next few days may be more about heading south than sightseeing.

Wednesday, we crossed the 15,000 km mark of our trip. We are also crossing back on highway 16 as far as Jasper before undertaking new adventures.

However, we had a bright, sunny, and frosty day today, so our drive through the mountains was full of better pictures than on the way West.

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This is the best view of Mount Robson going East.

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As you enter the Mount Robson area, watch for the barricade that closes the highway in bad weather. This is shortly after the turnoff to the BC interior. Do not blink and have your copilot keep the camera ready. You will come around a bend and it will be there big as day. You will have time for several pictures if you are quick.

Since it is freezing out and since we are backtracking, tonight is a good time to reflect.  Like most travellers, we charge everything. I just got a full month of credit card charges: 3544.51 divide by 31, we get 114 per day. Considering we are spending close to $100 a day on gas, the remainder of our spending has been frugal. So our next book will be: how to see Canada on a hundred dollars a day.

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We slept in McBride BC, just about the Alberta Border.  That way we can enter the National Parks early and pay just one day fee to cross. We chose a spot close to the visitor centre because they have wi-fi.  The visitor centre is located in the old train station.   What we did no know is that freight trains there run through out the night. Running is one thing, but banging around, coupling and uncoupling is another.  Well at least the price was right.

Thursday, we awoke to a chilly morning, -22 is cold on either scale.  We hit the road early and headed for the Columbia Icefields.  My first clue should have been the “road conditions poor” sign.  Oh well, we are not backtracking more to avoid this road.  Before arriving at the gate, I suspected there would be snow in the fields and that we would not SEE the icefield glacier since everything would be white.  Maybe we did not see the icefield, but the road was an icefield almost 200km of the way. 

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So we drove slower and managed to enjoy the sights anyway.  We started at an altitude of about 900 metres and worked our way up to 2100 metres. This is where the icefield is located.  The road to the interpretive centre, though open, did not seem to be sanded, so we forged on . . . Downhill, and down hill some more, only to rise again to 2100 metres, followed by a 5 mile hill, dropping 550 metres in a matter of minutes.  The views were breathtaking, despite the icy road conditions and the sinus pressure.  Winter has definitely arrived. In all the Rocky Mountain National Parks.

We needed to proceed in this direction to make it to Lake Louise.  The postcard picture was there, except that we arrived 30 minutes too late to have sunshine in the picture.  And oh, yes, the lake is surrounded by a clean bed of packed snow.

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A quick fill up and we proceed through 10 mile hill and kicking horse pass.  In about 10 minutes, we dropped about 300 metres. The first town we passed in BC was Field.  It is on the “other side” of the road and looked like a Christmas village.  Yes,it is winter here since we saw someone skating on a pond at the edge of the village. 30 minutes later, after what seemed like another endless downhill, we arrived in Golden for the night at a more comfortable altitude of 800metres.

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Tags: alberta, canada, road trip, travel .

From Prince Rupert to Haida Gwaii

Posted on 2014/11/12 by Guy Posted in road trip .

Before I start, I must remind you that Harry Manson, over100 years later, was  inducted into the soccer hall of fame in Vaughn Ontario last weekend.  This is indeed a great day for aboriginals in Nanaimo and everywhere.

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The atlas says it is 6340 kilometres from Charlottetown to Prince Rupert.  We have travelled over 14,000 to get here.  But then, if you want to experience this great land of ours, you cannot do it in a straight line.  Every detour has been interesting, and some were fantastic.

We arrived in Prince Rupert just as the rain and fog were subsiding.  Yet another day of little to see on the highway because of the fog.  We went to the visitor centre and learned a bit about this important port.  Among other interesting facts, I recall it is the deepest natural port and the shortest distance from the Americas to China.

After exploring the town, we pulled up to the ferry terminal to be among the first in line.  You may have heard that Haida Gwaii and Vancouver Island were expecting 100km winds.  Well, the RV was rocking throughout the evening.

Thursday, all was calm and we boarded the ferry for the 5 hour trip.  We had a fairly sunny day so we could enjoy the inner islands, the birds and the fish on the way out. The sun was close to setting when we arrived in Skidegate, so we made our way to Balance Rock and then found a place to pull over for the night.

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Friday, we explored the coastline for a bit, until the road took us inland towards Masset. We went looking there for some wi-fi without success. So we explored old Masset and the totem poles.  Then, we went to Tow Hill to see the blowhole, but it was not blowing. You need to get there on a rising tide.  However, we enjoyed the drive up through the rainforest.  I have yet to see so much moss on so many big trees.

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Saturday, we went to Queen Charlotte. The visitor centre is normally open Saturdays, but not today. So we explored the village on our own.  Odd that a place with a population of about 1000 is called a city. We found a health food store and a school bus shelter with books for reading during the wait.

Sunday is living up to its name so we are off beachcombing to see what Pacific seaglass looks like. We did not find any agates, but we found a piece of petrified wood, a tooth, a few pieces of glass and some neat looking rocks.

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Monday, the visitor centre in Queen Charlotte was open and we learned a bit more about aboriginal life, the protected areas, and the history of totem poles, and

November 11, the ceremonies in Ottawa were jut starting when we got into the ferry line up. We had good weather for the crossing. The 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month was marked by the slowing of the ship, the sounding of the whistle, and two minutes of silence.

We arrived in Prince Rupert just before dusk, in time to load up on propane, fuel, and begin the three days of frigid weather heading back towards the interior. A cold front has moved in. Prince George is expecting -20 and Jasper -30 for the next 2 nights. So tonight, we flush the tanks and winterize the water system until warmer weather resumes.

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Guy

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Tags: british columbia, canada, road trip, travel .

Rocky Mountains and Coastal Mountains

Posted on 2014/11/04 by Guy Posted in road trip .

After a refreshing break with friends in Francois Lake, we resumed our trip regenerated and reloaded with fresh lake water and moose meat.

We left earlier than planned to avoid some of the snow and fog and made our way past Smithers.  We pulled into a rest stop and woke up today next to some impressive mountains.  After leaving the Rocky Mountains, we have now entered the Coast(al) Mountain Range.

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We missed the Seven Sisters because of cloud and fog.  We will try them again on the return trip.As we passed the turnoff to the Alaska Highway, the overhead sign said the road was snow covered.  Good thing we were not planning on going father North.

The highest we went was 55 degrees, 15 minutes, 15 seconds according to the GPS.  We also travelled quite a bit downhill, going from an average of 800M down to about 200M.

We arrived in Terrace early enough to consider some sighseeing before nightfall.  So we had a chat with a nice lady at the visitor centre who showed us how to get to 2 “MUST SEE” attractions.  We had to pick only one

We visited a volcano eruption site Northwest of Terrace. After 250 years, some large areas still have just moss and lichen growing. Read more about the Tseax Cone.

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If. You want to visit the Nass Valley, the turnoff to route113 is clearly marked as you leave Terrace towards Prince Rupert.  It is about an hour’s drive on a windy road and the drive around Lava Lake can be breathtaking. After you enter the PARK, it is but a short drive to NUMBER 3 on your right Have a look at the plaque and heed the warnings. Then turn and face the lava pit, then follow the trail a bit to the right.  You will see 3 information stations along the way.

When you are finished here, keep going down the valley and look for VETTER FALLS on your left.  A short walk into the rain forest will leave you to a platform where you can view the rapids and witness a HUGE tree on your way out.

Keep going down to the Y junction to see acres upon acres on lava flow that still have nothing but lichens on it.

We called ahead to reserve our ferry to Haida Gwaii and asked about cancellations re the high winds expected tomorrow.  Those decisions are made last minute so we are forging ahead.  We will arrive in Prince Rupert Wednesday, marking 14,000km, and line up early Thursday for the ferry.

Guy

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Tags: british columbia, canada, road trip, travel .
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